Bocuse d’Or :: A gathering of international A-list chefs
Bocuse
d’Or is an international foundation of culinary professionals dedicated
to inspiring culinary excellence. Based in Lyon, France, the
Foundation’s Board of Directors includes Chef Daniel Boulud, Chef
Thomas Keller and Chef Jerome Bocuse, son of Chef
The
Bocuse d’Or holds regional competitions throughout the world to
recognize the superior achievements of the culinary masters in each
area. These regional face-offs culminate in a biennial international
competition of the 24 regional winners, held at the organization’s
headquarters in France. Bocuse d’Or USA was created in 2009 to
preserve the traditions and quality of classic cuisine in America; the
organization now hosts the USA region’s culinary competition.
Recently, the Bocuse d’Or USA competition finals were held at the Culinary Institute of America
(CIA) in Hyde Park, New York. During the course of the day, twelve
two-member teams presented two protein dishes to a panel of chef judges
for evaluation of overall promise as a Bocuse d’Or
Time Waits For No Man
Iron
Chef, the television show, was modeled after the Bocuse d’Or
competition, although on a smaller scale. The Bocuse d’Or competition
consists of 12 teams who rotate through the Manitowoc competition
kitchens in waves; each
Beginning
at 6AM - and lasting for 8 hours - these celebrity chef teams battled
the clock to produce some stellar dishes... and some flops.
The
most notable disaster came early in the day, when the first competitor
- Chef Jim Burke - couldn’t finish his entry before his allotted time
was up; a devastating event for someone who worked so hard to compete.
Just five minutes shy of completion, he didn’t get to finish his
presentation, but failed because he wasn’t ready on time.
The
judging passed him by with the announcement that the other contestants
would not be penalized for his tardiness, and that his food would still
be displayed when it was ready. Luckily, nothing else came close to
matching that devastating beginning.
Chef John Rellah, of the NY Yacht Club,
had a slight advantage, at least when it came to expectations: this was
his second year competing. His whole family was in the audience, some
of whom were banging on pots and pans - using ladles - to cheer him on.
He gave a good account of himself, but in the end didn’t make it
through in a competition many top chefs are never even qualified to
enter. It may have hurt to fail publicly, but it certainly was an honor
to be selected to compete at all, and then to be chosen twice! Now
that’s a man with fortitude.
I wonder if the third time will be the charm for him?
Next :: Who’s Who
Who’s Who - Judges, Chefs & Commis
Each
The competing chefs included:
Commis: Joseph Piccione, The Culinary Institute of America, Student
Commis: Simon Solis-Cohen, The Culinary Institute of America, Student
Commis: Wayne Goode, Caroline Country Club, Prep Cook
Commis: Marcella Ogrodnik, The Culinary Institute of America, Student
Commis: Tom Allan, Eleven Madison Park, Sous Chef
Commis: Leland Cummings, The Culinary Institute of America, Student
Commis: Nathaniel French, Catch, Garde Manger
Commis: James Caputo, Charlie Trotter’s, Cook
Commis: Alexander Flynn, The French Culinary Institute, Student
Commis: Cameron Slaugh, Park Avenue Seasonal, Sous Chef
Commis: Fernando Salazar, The Lobby Bar and Café at Encore, Cook
Commis: Melissa Marshall, The Culinary Institute of America, Extern
Chef James Kent Wins
And the winner was... Chef James Kent of Eleven Madison Park (NY).
Chef
Kent’s Scottish "Label Rouge" Salmon Pavé with Leeks, Osetra Cavier and
Sauce Fumet Blanc was elegantly garnished with the following: Roulade
with Alaskan King Crab, Relish of Cucumber and Meyer Lemon; Chilled
Mousse with Tartare and Roe; Pickled Heirloom Beets with Crème Fraiche,
Dill and Black Pepper. The fish was provided by Scottish Quality Salmon.
For
his lamb platter, Chef Kent presented Elysian Fields Farm Spring Lamb:
Bacon Wrapped Saddle with Piquillo Peppers and Provençale Herbes;
Vol-Au-Vent of Braised Gigot with Sweetbreads and Preserved Lemon;
Zucchini with Lynnhaven Chèvre Frais and Mint; Tart of Tomato Confit
with Basil, Niçoise Olives and Fromage Blanc. The lamb was provided by
The American Lamb Board.
Chef Daniel Boulud, The Bocuse d’Or USA
Foundation Chairman, praised Chef Kent saying he "shows a great deal of
courage, passion and command of his craft, and we look forward to
training him throughout the coming year in preparation for Lyon in
2011," referring to the fact that all the judges will be mentoring him
for the immediate future, helping to prepare him for the grueling
competition in Lyons next January.
Much was made of the fact
that between now and the finals in Lyon next January there are 11
months to prepare; competitors only had 3 months to prepare for the
last finals, which wasn’t enough time to groom a winner.
Speaking of winners, the first prize also comes with a monetary award. Chef Kent received a $5,000 cash prize.
In
second place, Chef Luke Bergman, Sous Chef at The Modern in New York
City, was awarded a trophy and a $4,000 cash prize. In third place,
Chef Christopher Parsons, Executive Chef/Owner of Catch in Winchester,
MA, was awarded a trophy and a $3,000 cash prize. The following awards
were also presented at the Awards Dinner:
Next :: Not all seasoned pros
Culinary Student as Spectator
Between
watching the action on the large screens dotting the walls of the VIP
lounge and eating the constantly replenished supply of scrumptious
food, (3 kinds of foie gras, lamb ragu served on polenta, smoked
salmon, lentil and tomato salads, a whole table of cheese bookended by
a beautifully shaped selection of bread, and various flavors of crème
bruleè) I talked to some of the other spectators. A young culinary
student, Taylor Miles, clutched his battered bible - Larousse Gastronomique - and a new copy of Chef Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry Cookbook.
"I’m waiting for a chance to get these signed, but I’m nervous about asking them." He nodded towards the judges.
I
assured him they’d be thrilled to be asked, so not to miss the
opportunity. A woman next to me echoed the sentiment before turning
back to the judging; for a moment we felt like a family. The whole
gymnasium full of spectators was like that.
I left the young
chef looking not so much reassured as resolute; later he positively
radiated happiness as he showed me his signed copies. He’ll go far.
Daylong Activities
The
day was full of other events to attend as well. The morning offered
symposiums on food: foie gras and lamb were my favorites. There was
also a Chef’s Roundtable on Sustaining Excellence to check out
in the afternoon, with book signings filling all the available spare
time, until the campus tours began. Even if I had a clone I couldn’t
have covered everything; as it was, the closed circuit competition was
almost too exciting to leave, but the lure of the live crowds kept
drawing me away from the food to stand before the judges. (I never knew
that watching a live competition of this stature could be so exciting!)
This
is nothing compared to the spectacle that is Bocuse d’Or in Lyon, with
50 to 300 people attending each of the 24 chefs, and thousands of
spectators. Chef Kent has 11 months to prepare, which is good because
it will likely take me that long to figure out how I’m going to get to
Lyon and watch him compete again.
For more information:
Bocuse d’Or USA
